The Curl Whisperer on Protein Treatments

For porous or damaged hair, protein treatments are often prescribed. But sometimes there is some confusion about the different types and forms of protein. There is keratin, eggs, silk protein, re-constructors, etc. Some products are called "light" protein treatments, while others are labeled "intensive." Just what is the difference in terms of the effect on the hair? And how do you know exactly how much you need?

First of all, any protein that is animal-based or that has the prefix "hydrolyzed" in front of it is a stronger protein; those such as natural "wheat" or "soy" are the proteins that are lighter. "Keratin" is the natural protein from which your hair is made. Your hair's condition and texture is a great baseline to determine how much and what type of protein you need. If you want to add protein simply because you have a fine texture and you need the extra support, a light protein treatment is fine. If, however, you have damage from sun, chlorine or chemical processes, a heavier protein reconstruction will then be necessary for any real effectiveness.

Another question I've been asked in the past about protein treatments: is it true that some protein has molecules small enough to penetrate the hair and be more effective and, if so, what kind of protein is that?

Proteins with smaller molecules are not necessarily more effective than those with larger molecules. While it's true smaller molecules can penetrate into the cortex--or inner layer of the hair--more easily, this really only becomes a consideration when you are effecting a chemical change in the hair, such as with color or texturizing. Proteins with larger molecules may take a slightly longer time to penetrate into the cortex, but they will be just as effective as those with smaller molecules once they get in there.

It is also vitally important you pay attention to your hair's texture when deciding to do a protein treatment. Fine hair is a hair type that typically needs more protein on a regular basis since it is fragile and doesn't have the support and structure of other hair types. If you are fine-haired, incorporating a protein pack or daily light protein into your routine is a good idea.

Not so for coarse hair, however. Coarse hair has so much protein in it naturally, applying any product with protein on top of it can spell disaster--resulting in a strawlike, wicked dry mess. Protein-free deep treatments with a heavy emollient base, which we will address in a future article, are a far more effective treatment type for those with coarse hair!

The Curl Whisperer on Shine Enhancers

Oh, the elusive state of shine in the world of curly hair. Historically, we ladies with curly tresses have more issues with natural shine than our straight-haired sisters because of how our hair catches the light. Straight hair reflects light, giving it a shiny appearance; curly hair refracts, or diffuses, light, making it appear dull and drab. Consequently, girls with curls often turn to shine enhancers to add the additional shine we lack naturally. It is important, however, to understand the differences between the different types and to know how to choose the most appropriate one to ensure good hair health over the long term.

There are three main types of shine enhances: silicone serums, oil serums and glazes.

Silicone Serums
Everyone is familiar with silicone-based shine serums, which claim to smooth the hair surface and add brilliant shine. Most of these serums, however, consist of non-water soluble silicones, such as dimethicone or dimethiconol, which form an impenetrable barrier on the hair shaft. Any product ingredient which seals the hair shaft shut can be problematic and create issues in the long run. The cuticle of our hair strand is formed like roof tiles to allow penetration of moisture and oxygen into the hair shaft for a reason. Continually coating and sealing the cuticle to prevent it from performing its proper function for a long period of time is not the best route to optimum hair health in the long run.

If you are going to use a shine serum, find one that includes water-soluble silicones, such as dimethicone copolyol or PEG/PPG-manufactured silicones, whenever possible to avoid any potential issues.

Oil Serums
Many believe a safer alternative to silicone-based shine serums are oil serums, which are touted as using carrier oils such as jojoba or olive oil to deliver shine and manageability. The vast majority of these products usually also contain some level of non-water soluble silicones in addition to the oils, however, and sometimes in greater quantity than the oils themselves. Additionally, care must be taken when using any type of heat application with any oil-based product as excess heat can literally "fry" a hair shaft coated in oil.

If you would like to use oils for shine, a good approach is to buy a can of olive oil cooking spray (such as Pam®) and use it to spray lightly on your curls (for both shine and frizz control). Be judicious, as you do not want to make yourself oily from using too much. Keeping the spray can at least 10 inches from your hair while spraying will also help to ensure any propellants will dissipate before reaching your hair.

Glazes
I love clear shine glazes and use them often in my own color work. Glazes are mainly semi- or demi-permanent color treatments with a clear or tinted result. They are different from permanent color in that they only stain the outside of the cuticle, whereas permanent color actually results in a chemical change inside the cortex. Clear glazes add a beautiful dimension and give hair enormous depth and shine.

As a bonus, glazes can help to prevent permanent color from fading since they add another level of "defense" on top of the hair shaft and normally last anywhere from six to 12 weeks, depending on the type of glaze used. Glazes are my preferred method for adding long-lasting shine to hair.

Shine on!

The 'Curl Whisperer' on Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are oil extracts from seeds, fruit, vegetables or nuts that are rich hair emollients (moisturizers). They can also be used to “carry” essential oils, which are either too concentrated or will evaporate upon contact on their own, into the hair.

Unlike essential oils, carrier oils, which are also known as "base" oils", do not usually carry a strong scent of their own and are classified as "fixed' oils, meaning they do not typically evaporate. They can have many health properties of their own as they often contain vitamins, minerals and some essential fatty acids.

Cold-pressed oils, where the oil obtained from seeds and nuts is extracted using little to no heat, is a more expensive process, but the oils produced are considered to be a superior quality in many applications. Carrier oils produced by using a procedure called "hot extraction", in which extremely high temperatures are used to extract the oil, are often regarded as inferior as much of the oil's benefits are destroyed in the process.

Carrier oils are also available in refined and unrefined forms. Although unrefined oils are preferred in massage therapy and certain practices of aromatherapy, refined oils are generally chosen for use in cosmetic preparations so their heavier color and texture does not compete with any other ingredients.

Because carrier oils are oily in nature, they are included in many hair care products to supply additional moisture to the hair shaft. In hair care products with more natural formulations, they are considered a better base than alcohol, which can be drying, and can also assist in combating breakage, splitting and tangling.

The 'Curl Whisperer' on Alcohols

There is widespread concern about the use of alcohols in hair and skin products; common perception is that alcohol is drying to the skin and hair, so many individuals seek to use products that are alcohol-free.

What is not commonly known, however, is that there are two types of alcohols: fatty and short-chain alcohols. There are important differences between the two and it is important to be able to tell them apart, as fatty alcohols can be quite beneficial to curly hair care.

Because the molecules in fatty alcohols are more oily in nature than those of other alcohol molecules, fatty alcohols are used as emollients in hair care products and contribute a smooth, soft feel to the hair. Excessive use of them can make the hair greasy, but a judicious amount of fatty alcohols in hair care products can add beneficial moisturizers.

Fatty alcohols should not be confused with what are known as “short-chain alcohols,” which are effective in aiding the dissolution of product ingredients not soluble in water, but can be drying to the hair when used in large amounts. They evaporate quickly, but can still ruffle the cuticle and strip moisture from the hair. As long as a short-chain alcohol is close to the bottom of a product ingredient label, you can be reasonably certain it is only included in the formulation to aid in creating a stable emulsion and will most likely not contribute any drying effects to your hair. And individuals with fine hair should be cautious about using any product with heavy amounts of fatty alcohols, as an overabundance of this product ingredient type may over-moisturize and weigh down fine strands.

The 'Curl Whisperer' on Essential Oils

With more and more individuals moving towards "green" and natural living, essential oils are playing a much larger role in the formulation of hair care products than ever before.

What are essential oils? Essential oils are concentrated liquids from plants containing the oil of the plant material from which they were extracted. They have been used in hair preparations for centuries to promote shine and enhance natural hair health.

Essential oils are most commonly mixed with some type of carrier oil in hair product formulations, as they are either too concentrated or will evaporate upon contact on their own. Because of their concentrated nature, essential oils should not used in undiluted form as some can cause severe irritation, or can provoke an allergic reaction.

Despite their benefits, it is important to note most essential oils carry what are known as "contraindications." A contraindication is a condition in which application of a particular treatment or substance is not advisable, i.e., if someone is allergic to penicillin, we would regard that as a contraindication for penicillin use, since further use of penicillin on that individual would trigger an allergic reaction.

As an example: rosemary and sage are contraindicated in pregnancy and with high blood pressure, meaning that women who are pregnant or individuals with high blood pressure are advised not to use any preparation containing those essential oils.

Additionally, many essentials oils also carry what are known as "cautions," which are similar to contraindications, but are not as severe in nature. For example, citrus oils, such as lemon and grapefruit, are photosensitive and should not be applied prior to sun exposure.

It is VERY important to note that you should not infer any essential oil is safe if a contraindication or caution is not listed. ALWAYS consult a medical professional to address any concerns you may have about the safety of any product ingredient.

MIA Again!

I know, I know...I really need to get back with the program!

Two brief updates:

I am moving to a new salon effective September 1, so things have been busy as I have been getting ready for that. I am really excited about this move...I think it will be a great thing for me and all of my curly friends. I will be able to do more curly-type events and have more control over the process, so I am over-the-moon happy.

If you haven't seen the pictures of the Lake Worth road show LCLF did on August 9, stop by and give them a look. We had a lot of fun, did some amazing hair, and are potentially planning to head back down again in the next few months. We have another road show in mind for November that I am very excited about, and I will keep you posted as plans are solidified.

Out for now...wish me luck!

Running on Empty

I haven't been nearly as diligent in firing up my blog again as I intended. But...truth be told, I have pretty much run out of steam with everything I have going on and I needed to let some things go. I am going on vacation from July 4-14 and I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to it. I love, love, love what I do but I have been running on fumes for a while now and really need to rest and recharge before I plunge back into the madness.

There are some exciting things in the works for LCLF (and with other projects). I am doing my first official "road show" in Lake Worth, FL on August 9, which is going to be awesome. I've had a couple people tentatively ask me if I would travel and do one elsewhere and my response has been: never say never. Of course, someone in Lake Worth put this all together and all I have to do is show up; creating and scheduling road shows isn't something I'll be adding to my "to do" list any time soon. If anyone is really serious about this, I figure they will proactively start the ball rolling and contact me for more information, at which time I will be more than happy to chat about it :)

Also...if you live in the Tampa Bay area or anywhere in the general vicinity, I will be teaching a curly hair workshop on July 20 at 5:30 p.m. We are going to have a lot of fun, so if you are interested, please contact Essentials the Salon at 727.522.9424 for additional information and to register.

Be good and I will see you when I get back from vacation!